GLOSSARY OF TERMS:

JACKETS

> full dress = a.k.a. tails or tailcoat

> cutaway = a.k.a morning coat. They are short in the

front and long in the back. Tapers from the front to a

wide back tail. Usually reserved for "Morning or Daytime"
weddings

> mandarin = standup style coat with no lapels.

> tuxedo = "regular" coat

> stroller = semi-formal suit jacket

> single-breasted = in regards to jacket; symmetrical

front; buttons at the center; more common than double-

breasted; option of leaving coat buttoned or unbuttoned

> double-breasted = in regards to jacket; one side of

coat overlaps the center and buttons across to the other

side; usually gives a fuller look in the chest area;
suggested that these coats be buttoned at all times while
standing

LAPELS

> Notch lapel = triangular indentation in lapel

> Shawl collar = rounded lapels

> Peak lapel = V-shaped lapel that points upward

TROUSERS

Trousers should match the jacket. Most tuxedo trousers
will have the satin stripe going down the side or each leg.
Exception: If you're wearing a stroller or cutaway for a
daytime formal wedding, you will most likely wear black
trousers without the satin stripe, grey, or grey/black pin-
striped trousers.

COAT AND TROUSER MATERIAL

> Worsted Wool = 100% Wool fabric (standard); thread
count is generally 60 - 75 threads per inch.

> Super 100's = finer and softer wool that Super 100's;
thread count is 100 threads per inch.

Geoffrey Beene makes a gorgeous Super 100's tuxedo.
Andrew Fezza also features a Super 100 with "Comfort
Stretch"

> Super 110's = even softer than the Super 100's; thread
count is 110 threads per inch.

Lubiam has tuxedos in this category.

> Super 120's = I'm sure you can guess -- even softer;
thread count is 120 threads per inch.

Lubiam tuxedos dominate this prestigous category.
However, Andrew Fezza just came out with a couple
gorgeous tuxedos with the finest of Super 120 fabric.

SHIRTS

> Wingtip = standup collar with downward points. Most

popular and most formal choice.

> Mandarin = standup collar without the points.

> Down collar = Similar to your standard dress shirt

> Crosswick = Crosses in front and is fastened with a

button cover

> Material options = 100% cotton, poly/cotton blend,
micofiber, pique, or pinwale pique

> French cuffs = folded over and closed with cufflinks

> Convertible cuffs = not folded over; closed with

cufflinks

VESTS / CUMMERBUNDS

> Full back = material is on back of vest; covers back of

shirt

> Open back = no material on back; back of shirt is

visible

> Cummerbunds = pleated swatches worn around the

waist; the pleats should be facing upward

NECKWEAR

> Bowtie = most traditional tie option; self-tie or pre-tied

> Eurotie = square bottomed tie and knotted at the neck;
pre-tied

> 4-in-hand tie = similar to ties you were with a casual
suit. Usually pre-tied

> Sharpe = wider tie with wrinkled knot (see photo of
Celebrity Paisley Vest by Andrew Fezza)

> Ascot = wide tie which is folded over; pre-tied

> Bolo = "Western" tie

JEWELRY

> Studs = set of 4 button-like pieces that are used in lieu

of the button down the shirt. Studs should always be

used with formal shirts.

> Cufflinks = set of 2 pieces which fasten a formal shirt's

cuffs. Cufflinks should always be used with formal

shirts.

> Button Cover = larger piece which is used in lieu of a

bowtie. It is used with a mandarin or crosswick style