Cufflinks are relatively recent in the fashion history. Until
the beginning of the 17th century in Europe, cufflinks didn't
exist. Elegant men retained their handles by ribbons or lace.
However, some eccentrics started to use silver or gold buttons
connected by a small chain to retain their handles: cufflink
had been born.
This eccentricity phenomenon allured but it been necessary to
await the end of the 19th century so that cufflinks become an
element running of the wardrobe male. Several reasons with that:
the industry development which allowed manufacture lower cost
but also the shirt evolution and the men's wear in general.
Male fashion was democratized and become more sober under the
influence of some men like George Brummel whose elegance and
refinement marked its century.
At the end of 19th century, the middle-class and the businessmen
showed the elegance style. But these new kind of dandies remained
very traditional, sometimes austere. Dark costume during the
day, dinner jacket during the evening. Only their cufflinks
showed their personality. Manufacturers were very imaginative
and multiplied forms, matters and fasteners mechanisms: chain,
lever with rocker, rigid connection... Principal modern mechanisms
were invented at that time.
At the beginning of the 20th century, very imaginative English
creators, like large jewellers (Cartier, Tiffany...) adored
"Art nouveau". Strong artistic currents like "Art
Déco", Cubism or Bauhaus influenced cufflinks creators
which used sophisticated matters: opaline, enamels, crystal,
pearl, precious stones...
In 1924, Mr Boyer, of the Boyer company, created fastener system
made up of a tilting stick over all his length between a double
stem. Nowadays, this system remains most still used. Of Charles
Lindbergh to Duke of Windsor, elegant men succeeded to mark
their time by their detail sense. They never separated from
their cufflinks.
In the Seventies, tuxedo shirts with built-in buttons replace cufflinks.
Fortunately, some irreducible elegant men fight to continue
to carry cufflinks. The haute couture famous names, faithful
to traditions, perpetuate this jewel existence.
It will be necessary to wait the Nineties to see new creators
putting on again to the day style, french cuffs shirts. Cufflink
becomes a fashion accessory then more than a jewel. Young people
rediscover this accessory. Paul Smith, Gucci brands create new
cufflinks. A new generation of cufflinks was born. The jewel
became an essential accessory of the male mode for the great
satisfaction of the elegant ones.