JACKETS
Tails or tailcoat -
Yep, these tails are talking to you. The eponymous tails actually
have tails, with a two- to six-button front. Generally worn
at ultra-formal evening weddings.
Tuxedo -
A tuxedo jacket can be single-breasted (with a one- to four-button
front) or double-breasted (with a two- to six-button front)
and is worn at formal or semiformal evening events. The basic
tux comes in a variety of flavors. Pick single- or double-breasted
with one of three lapels: peaked, notched, or shawl. Wear it
with black, satin-striped trousers.
Mandarin, a.k.a. Nehru jacket -
This jacket features a stand-up collar with no lapel and is
worn with a Mandarin collared shirt. Hint: This combo provides
a sneaky way to avoid wearing a tie.
Cutaway -
For formal daytime weddings, the groom wears the cutaway coat
-- short in the front, long in the back, and tapering from the
front waist button to a wide back tail. Cutaway jackets are
either black or gray and are worn with matching striped trousers.
Stroller coat -
This semiformal jacket is a semi-formal suit jacket cut like
a tuxedo. Usually charcoal gray or black and typically worn
in the daytime.
LAPELS
Notched lapel -
This lapel features a triangular indention where the lapel joins
the collar. This is the least formal lapel style.
Shawl collar -
This is a smooth, rounded lapel with no notch.
Peaked lapel -
This broad, V-shaped lapel points up and out just below the
collar line.
TROUSERS
With your formal ensemble, your tuxedo trousers should match your
jacket in style and color. If you’ll be in a formal daytime
wedding and will wear a stroller coat or cutaway coat, wear
gray or gray pinstriped trousers.
SHIRTS
Mandarin collar, a.k.a. band collar -
This collar stands up around the neck, above the tux’s
buttons. The most contemporary-style tuxedo shirt. If ties put
you in mind of a hangman’s noose, try this shirt: You
can wear it without a tie.
Spread collar -
This resembles a standard button-front shirt but folds over
and around the neck with a wide division between points in front.
The wider collar makes it a good choice with a Euro tie or a
standard necktie tied Windsor style.
Wing collar -
The most formal choice and the collar style most often worn
with tuxedo jackets, this stand-up collar has downward points.
White pique shirt -
This standard style dress shirt is made from white pique fabric,
which has some texture. Wear it with a white tie and vest.
Sleeves -
As for sleeve cuffs, you have a few options: standard dress-shirt
cuffs held together with cuff links; French cuffs, which are
folded over and closed with cuff links; and cuffs that close
with a button. The choice is yours, but, in general, formal
shirts call for cuff links.
NECKWEAR
Ascot tie -
This wide, formal tie is usually patterned, folded over, and
fastened with a stickpin or tie tack. Usually reserved for ultra-formal
daytime weddings and worn with a cutaway coat and striped gray
trousers.
Bolo tie -
You go, cowboy! If you’re having a Western-themed wedding,
live in Santa Fe, or are a working broncobuster, this stringy
tie is for you. But if your bride has visions of Breakfast at
Tiffany’s dancing in her head, think again before breaking
out your turquoise-studded bolo tie for the wedding, and go
instead for something more classic.
Bow tie -
Probably the thing to wear with a classic tux. Bow ties come
in several colors besides basic black --- white is reserved
for super-formal events, and colored bow ties are suitable for
any occasion. You can match the wedding colors, but basic black
is far classier, so think twice before ordering that fuchsia
tie. Does tying a bow tie leave you baffled? Check out our how-to
article.
Sharpei tie -
This is a hybrid between an ascot tie and a regular, run-of-the-mill
necktie. It’s a long, square-bottomed tie knotted at the
neck and worn with a wing collar or spread collar shirt. The
Sharpe offers a more formal look that´s not as all-out
as an ascot.
Necktie -
If you have an office job, you probably own a slew of these.
They’re also called four-in-hands and are perfect for
more casual -- yet still elegant -- wedding looks. Important
tip: Breaking out your Mickey Mouse necktie to lighten up your
wedding tux is definitely not cute. Go for silk in silver or
blue. Remember how great John Kennedy Jr. looked on his wedding
day? This is the look you want.
ACCESSORIES
Tuxedo Vests -
For an ultra-formal evening wedding, clad yourself in a white
tie and waistcoat. Or choose a colored waistcoat instead of
a cummerbund for the Four Weddings and a Funeral look, popular
in Britain. Vests let men in the wedding party lend a bit of
personality to their looks.
Cummerbunds -
These are pleated swatches of fabric worn around the waist.
Usually basic black, but you can choose from colored cummerbunds
to match the bridesmaid dresses or the wedding colors.
Cuff links -
These little babies can make or break an outfit. If you want
style, try a set checkerboard stones or an inset color other
than black. If simple elegance is your style, stick with black
cuff links outlined in gold or silver. Who knows? Maybe your
bride will give you a set as a groom gift on the big day.
Some content by the knot.